I’m no authority in what places are the must-dos. But I can tell you which are the ones I went to. I’ll sprinkle in some basic information along the way and tell you about my experience. Your trip will be different than mine. But I thought I’d share what I saw.

I was on my way to complete the former states of Yugoslavia. I have managed to cross off 4 of the 7 before 2022 (Serbia, North Macedonia, Croatia and Slovenia). And 2023 gave me the opportunity to finally reach Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Sarajevo was the first stop. And for most people, at the mention of the city’s name, “war” comes to mind. The event that triggered the First World War happened in the streets of Sarajevo. And as recent as the 90s, the capital was plagued with the Bosnian War.

Chaos and turmoil seem to dominate its rich history. But the place is blessed with diverse architecture, owing to the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman influences, strong and tasty coffee, warm and interesting people, and a meat-heavy cuisine.

I deliberately diversified my itinerary – putting in bits of historical sites, museums and galleries, abandoned structures, busy markets, and sprinkles of nature.

Here are five places I visited in Sarajevo:

Sarajevo Tunnel / Tunnel of Hope

Imagine a city being under siege during a war. And the hopelessness that comes along with a conflict. Make that 3 years. And picture how majority of the military infrastructure that used to support a conglomeration of states, including yours, is now working against you.

The people of Sarajevo went through that exact ordeal. And they had the resolve to see things through and the ingenuity to dig a tunnel under the airport runway. The idea, while brilliant, required calculated risks – making sure the operation was largely undetected, and ensuring safety of the people doing the work on both sides of the pathway. This all happened in the 90s. And fortunately, a part of the tunnel survived.

The route was crucial to the delivery of aid, food, and weaponry from outside the city. And this also served as an escape for the victims of war who felt they finally needed to get away.

Galerija 11/07/95

Sarajevo took a beating in the 90s. But one that captured the eyes, and not necessarily the ears of the international community, was Srebrenica.

Galerija 11/07/95 is a reminder of the genocide and the atrocities that Bosniaks suffered in the hands of war criminals. The faces of some of the victims, with their names and ages, are on display. Pictures depicting the events and sentiment of the times are all over the gallery.

The exhibit is quite sobering. And the experience forces me to confront the realities I often forget or deliberately ignore.

Equally heavy and powerful, as I still had the time and energy, is the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide 1992-1995. The subject matter is broader – the entirety of the Bosnian War. And the place also features items and artifacts with their backstories.

Sarajevo Olympic Bobsleigh and Luge Track

Part of Sarajevo’s charm is how many abandoned places can be found within it. In the past, the war left the city with no choice but to leave these behind. But nowadays, part of the history is simply untouched (and not so commercialised), and just left for people like me to explore.

Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics in 1984. And while bobsleigh and luge are foreign to me, manmade architectural feats are my cup of tea. I can argue the investment is a waste. But nowadays, the track is covered in graffiti and street art. And that’s a pleasure for the eyes.

Going there, I took a cable car up the Trevebic Mountain. The experience gave me a panoramic view of the city. The queue wasn’t busy. And the price was relatively affordable.

A hike is also possible… but I was pressed for time. And if I were being truly honest, I’m not physically fit to do that much climbing.

Yellow Fortress

If there was one place I was underwhelmed by in Sarajevo, it would be the Yellow Fortress. Sure, the panoramic view of the old town can be seen from where I stood. And maybe if I stuck around until sunset, I would have seen the city in a different light.

I will sound like a perpetually dissatisfied person. But the walk up to the fortress is quite manageable, neither challenging nor strenuous. The size isn’t impressive. (I know how that sounds). And while sipping a coffee was nice, not many activities can be done from this place after.

Bascarsija

Bascarsija is the market and the city center of Sarajevo. Shops, restaurants, and people are here. It feels like an adaptation of “Everything, Everywhere, All At Once”. I stayed in this area to have easy access to all my travel needs – places, food, coffee, people, etc.

Iconic landmarks such as the Seblij Fountain and Gazi Husrev-bey Mosque are in the vicinity. And for the shopaholics, options will never run out.

A word of caution – when I was eating at a restaurant in the area, someone lost her bag. As much as I feel bad for my fellow traveler, her experience takes nothing away from how condense and packed the place is. Be careful!

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The trip happened on March 2023